Valladolid, in Spain’s Castile and León, is better known for its world-class wines than for cycling, but that’s exactly what made it such a compelling surprise. Vast plateau formations stretch endlessly, with gravel roads cutting through open land where the horizon feels impossibly distant and the light seems to linger forever. Wind turbines dot the landscape in stark contrast to castles, turning each ride into a quietly surreal, modern-day echo of Don Quijote.